I am a sad, sad amateur

So I surfed yesterday and today - and the conditions were pretty much the same:

• Big
• Closed out
• Strong northbound current

For the most part I was the only one out both days. It took me a while to sack up and even try to go for anything, but I figured the small to medium sized ones by the pier were the best ones to get.

At best, I would just make it down the face to see the wave close out on me.

Today, I had a hard time getting out and staying in position with the current and rips. If a few big sets were to roll through, the entire beach would flush like a toilet. On one set I ended up on 28th just trying to paddle out.

I decided to give up around 7(ish) and some of the better local guys paddled in. They definitely showed me that I am still a sad amateur. Those guys paddled in and split a peak. A few waves later, one guy got barrelled on a big closeout.

I guess I still have a lot to learn with this surfing thing.