Crappy

I thought today would be awesome with the higher tide and smaller size. It was, but unfortunately the best place was right beside the pier and there were a few guys on it as early as 5 am.

Had a crappy session - couldn't find the corners, felt like I was paddling slow and for the most part just couldn't get in the groove.

I am a sad, sad amateur

So I surfed yesterday and today - and the conditions were pretty much the same:

• Big
• Closed out
• Strong northbound current

For the most part I was the only one out both days. It took me a while to sack up and even try to go for anything, but I figured the small to medium sized ones by the pier were the best ones to get.

At best, I would just make it down the face to see the wave close out on me.

Today, I had a hard time getting out and staying in position with the current and rips. If a few big sets were to roll through, the entire beach would flush like a toilet. On one set I ended up on 28th just trying to paddle out.

I decided to give up around 7(ish) and some of the better local guys paddled in. They definitely showed me that I am still a sad amateur. Those guys paddled in and split a peak. A few waves later, one guy got barrelled on a big closeout.

I guess I still have a lot to learn with this surfing thing.

Decent performance considering the crappy conditions

Only a few people out early today - Brett, myself and another dude were out there at about 6 am.

The tide was low and it was pretty dumpy. You could, however, get the smaller ones if you were lucky. I actually moved right beside the pier (north side) and got a handful of short rides.

My shoulder is still shot from volleyball, so I am not sure if I will be in the water anytime soon.

Nasty water, size, but crappy anyway

Haven't been in the water for almost two weeks. I decided that today was going to be the day - I even brought out the fish to make things interesting.

Unfortunately, conditions were kind of crappy:

• Stormy
• Onshore winds
• Dirty water
• Closing out (but crumbly)
• Waist to shoulder high
• Strong current north

There were a bunch of dudes out with longboards, so it didn't make me feel so bad that I brought out the fish. All could get were tiny little sections I was too scared to hit the lip on because they were pretty thick.

All good though - it's always good to be in the water anyway.