Unfortunately not as good as yesterday..

I woke up extra early today because I thought it was going to be just as fun as yesterday. But it wasn't =(.

Surfing a potato chip requires more juice than what was out there. There were a few set waves that would come through, but you had to be closer to the pier to get them.

After about 30 minutes I moved north side of the pier and started getting some funner ones.

My wetsuit is disintegrating into wetsuit fumes every time I get into the water. Time to look for some that are on sale.

Tomorrow will hopefully be better.

Unexpected!

Wow, I thought today was going to be a normal day at Venice, but it was actually really fun. Conditions were glassy, peaky, waist to shoulder high.

On top of that, not too many folks out. I was surfing with Jaime south side, and Brett was on the north side with another guy just north of him.

I'm still feeling a bit goofy on my new board, but when I get on a good wave, it's pretty fun. My wave of the day was actually one off the pier that I thought I wasn't going to make, but did. Was pretty awesome.

As it got crowded later in the morning, I moved farther south. There were peaks up and down the beach to take off on.

Hopefully tomorrow will be just as good as today!

Pretty Good Session

Pretty fun today. I checked the report and it said that the wind was going to die down and the surf should be a lot cleaner.

It really was and the icing on top: no one else out there except for me and Nathan. We pretty much had whatever wave we wanted.

I'm still getting used to the 6'1" pintail quad I just got. I realized today that I can't be a "lazy paddler" with the board (you know, when you kind of paddle and just try to time it so you don't have to paddle that much).

I need to step it up and go strong for each wave.

Gnarly SSW

Today's surf report:

• Definitely a SW, where it was only breaking South of the pier
• Head high, head +
• Closing out

There were a few of us out in the morning, but as one of the twins said, "It's too f$%^ng walled!"

I don't think tomorrow is going to be much better unless you go to a point break or a place that will hold up.

Another sub-par session

So the conditions today were much better than yesterday: semi-glassy, less size, more peaky. Unfortunately, my performance was still sub par.

I also realized the wisdom in staying committed and why I landed on my fins yesterday because i did it again today. Basically I was backing out too late and would get pitched over the falls. Today was much worse because my fins hit the small of my back and my butt, so I've got nice bruises to show my wife this morning.

So today I feel beat up, exhausted and semi-defeated. The next few days are going to be pretty small so maybe it's a good reprieve from my sub par performances over the week.

Argh such a bad session!

So I thought today was the day. Tide seemed right, size seemed right, etc., etc. Unfortunately, when I got out there, the wind was already blowing onshore making conditions kind of dumpy.

On top of that, the current was pretty strong southward. On my first wave, I actually had to get out, walk north of the pier about 20 yards just so I could get back to where I started.

I did figure it out after a while and didn't have to do that the rest of the session.

Here's how bad my session was:

• I was constantly paddling for position
• I was always late dropping in
• I kept getting beat up on the inside
• My board flipped over a few times and I landed on my skags

The conditions weren't that bad. I just sucked.

Maybe tomorrow I can do better.

Snuck in a lunchie

Conditions for a lunchtime session looked ripe today, so I snuck out of work at about quarter to noon.

When I got out there, the wind was already onshore and there was a lot of texture on it. Just south of the pier there looked to be a decent section on the bigger waves.

Positioning was a little tricky because you had to sit deeper than usual and although the waves looked like they were going to bomb, they backed off at the last minute.

Once you got the hang of it, there was a little section between the peak just south of the pier and the second one just south of that. Unfortunately, it was tough getting speed because the angle of the face wasn't super steep. I actually wish I brought out my fish today so I could get a little more speed at takeoff.

Regardless, it was fun and worth going out.

Tide < zero

...which means everything was pretty much closed out.

I was the only one in the water at 6:30 am and I think everyone was pretty much surfed out from the weekend. Even when people started to show up at 7:30, the only people that were there were newbs.

Oddly enough, I felt that I had a much better session in comparison to my session on Saturday when conditions were amazing. I think my performance isn't as good when there are a lot of people in the water (especially with guys that are 3 times better than I am). I also think I don't do as well when I get stuck on the inside a couple of times.

Today was pretty much:

1. Drop in
2. Get barreled
3. Get pounded into the sand

I had a few rights off the pier, but nothing to get excited about.

It should be pretty awesome at about 10 am.

Pretty darn good

Surfed both Friday night and Saturday morning.

Friday night pretty much sucked because it was just crappy windswell and there was a lot going on in the water. It was hard to stay in position, you had to wait for plus sized sets to get anything remotely surfable, blah, blah, blah. The good thing was you could feel a lot of energy in the water.

Saturday, well, saturday was pretty epic. One of those days you wait the whole year for. Slightly offshore, shoulder to head + sets, good shape - it was fantastic. I didn't want to get out of the water, but my body was so taxed I had to get out.

I heard today was going to be just as good. Why do all the good days happen during family holidays?

It's all good though, I had my fill from yesterday.

So sad that I was unable to surf today

I did get to surf yesterday and Tuesday, however.

Tuesday was decent, but I had to bring out the fish. It was fun"ish".

Yesterday was super fun. Good size, good shape. I was just out of practice and shape and it took me a while to get my timing back.

I'm sure today is pretty awesome, but alas I can only imagine surfing from my office. Sad.