Lunch session yesterday

Hit a quick lunch session yesterday at Porto. There was definitely some size; roughly about shoulder to head high. Some closeout sets maybe head +.

The only issue was that the tide was low and it made getting out pretty difficult. I actually got caught inside twice during the session.

If you got to find a corner, you would be in for a pretty good ride. They were pretty elusive thought because of all the water movement.

Cool video I found on YouTube...

Did an afternoon session yesterday...

...and if it weren't for the awesome weather I would have said it sucked. 1-2', mushy, lots of texture and cold water made it tough to catch waves. There were a few here and there, but definitely conditions for either a longboard or a fish.

Now I have to wait for the rain to clear before I head back into the water.

Got a surf in before the rain

Really cold again today, the surf was glassy, but the size was smaller. The waves were a little tricky to get into because they were mushy for 80% of them.

It took me a while to get it dialed in:

• You had to paddle parallel to the peak because it moved pretty fast southward
• You had to take off sideways
• You had to drop in just as the wave was breaking

I finally figured it out after about a half an hour and then got a few good rides. Lots of waiting though, but it was still fun.

It's raining now so no surf for a while.

So glad I went out today

Freezing cold this morning. I actually was going to bail out at first, but when I checked it out it looked pretty good.

Not super glassy, but there were a lot of peaks here and there. I posted up just south of the pier and got one as soon as I got into the lineup. Since most of the waves were mushy, the rides were steep in the beginning and then it would die down at the end.

I tried going for the lip at the end of the rides, but since the waves were so mushy, there wasn't much left to hit. The best strategy was to drop in late and deep and just try to pump through the wave.

My best wave went from the pier to about Catamaran.

Not a ton of people out either; I saw Nathan and some other folks but there was plenty of waves for everyone.

Got a quick surf in!

Tried to get a surf in today before the rain started to hit. I almost got in the water before the rain started, but it sprinkled as I was driving over to Porto.

The bigger sets were shoulder to head high and mostly closing out. There were a few corners, and if you got into them they would give you a decent ride.

Unfortunately, 30 minutes for a lunch session isn't enough for me to get warmed up and used to the conditions. I got 3 waves in, but definitely nothing to be proud of.

At least I got some time in the water though.

No go!

I guess everyone had the same idea I did - try to catch some surf before it started to rain. But alas, no enough size and a ton of onshore wind made it just a dream.

I saw a bunch of folks just checking it out and turning around, including Brett.

So it looks like another 4 days of surf videos.