Surfed both Friday night and Saturday morning.
Friday night pretty much sucked because it was just crappy windswell and there was a lot going on in the water. It was hard to stay in position, you had to wait for plus sized sets to get anything remotely surfable, blah, blah, blah. The good thing was you could feel a lot of energy in the water.
Saturday, well, saturday was pretty epic. One of those days you wait the whole year for. Slightly offshore, shoulder to head + sets, good shape - it was fantastic. I didn't want to get out of the water, but my body was so taxed I had to get out.
I heard today was going to be just as good. Why do all the good days happen during family holidays?
It's all good though, I had my fill from yesterday.
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