Friday, December 12, 2008

Worse conditions, better session

The backwash/deflection combined with the high tide made the surf kinda crazy today. You had to ride the beach break and time your paddle so that you stood up just as the wave was on the "bounce-up".

The end of the ride you were practically standing on the beach.

Hopefully tomorrow will be much better.

Thursday, December 11, 2008

Worse than yesterday

Yep, nothing much today. Smaller, less consistent, cold. I just had one memorable right.

Tuesday, December 9, 2008

Better than yesterday

I brought the fish today. Apparently the tide was at a +6 yesterday morning and it was at +5 today.

I had a better session, but the spot I was surfing wasn't as good as the south side of the pier.

I think tomorrow the swell will die down a bit.

Monday, December 8, 2008

Disappointing

I thought today was going to be awesome, but it really wasn't. Glassy, waves were breaking late, but not very consistent or peaky.

On top of that, I felt like I was out of surfing shape.

I did have one nice right that went from the pier to about half way down the berm.

That's about it. Hopefully tomorrow will be much better.

Thursday, December 4, 2008

Really out of shape today, kind of out of shape yesterday

Pretty decent conditions today and yesterday. Overcast, glassy and some shape. Yesterday had better shape, though.

Unfortunately, I am out of shape. I haven't surfed for about 2 weeks so my timing was really off yesterday and today I figured out that they were breaking fairly fast where I was lining up.

Been hanging out south side, but someone told me the jetty has been pretty good.