Nothing much this morning. Water temp was cold, air temp was warm, waves were small, blah blah blah blah blah.
Glad to be back in the water after 2 weeks of straight working.
To make things worse, someone in the water told me that last Monday was awesome. Sucks that I missed it.
Monday, November 17, 2008
Monday, November 3, 2008
So good...
Today is one of those days a regularfoot waits for all summer long. Nice NW rolling through at about waist to head high + and tons of rights to be had. What made it even better was the fact that there were only a handful of guys out early in the morning.
Had a bunch of rights and a few lefts. The current was pushing pretty strong south, so I thought my best strategy would be to walk back in front of the take off point and paddle from there.
I think this is the best time of year for me because of the rights and because of the minimal amount of people. My last few sessions have been pretty good, but I feel that I could be doing so much better. I think I need to keep my feet farther apart and I really need to start trying to get more speed before attempting to hit the lip. I also think that I am forcing it a little too much and should let the wave dictate more of what I should be doing.
Had a bunch of rights and a few lefts. The current was pushing pretty strong south, so I thought my best strategy would be to walk back in front of the take off point and paddle from there.
I think this is the best time of year for me because of the rights and because of the minimal amount of people. My last few sessions have been pretty good, but I feel that I could be doing so much better. I think I need to keep my feet farther apart and I really need to start trying to get more speed before attempting to hit the lip. I also think that I am forcing it a little too much and should let the wave dictate more of what I should be doing.
Saturday, November 1, 2008
Today was awesome!
Today was pretty awesome. A little on the heavy side, but there were definitely some shoulders out there to play with. I got out there fairly early (about 7:30) and there were only about 4 people out. Slightly overcast but warm. I actually had my 3/2 on instead of my 4/3.
As it got a little more crowded, I noticed this barreling peak just north of where I was (I think it was between 29th and 30th street), so I decided to paddle over. I figured this is my chance to try to get barreled on a bigger day.
Unfortunately it was pretty fast and heavy so getting barreled wasn't so easy. Every ride you would pull into would just pound you to the ground when you were done. I was unsuccessful on most attempts to get covered up. I did, however, go on some big ones. My motto for today was "go big or go home". I had a few fun lefts and a quick right section. The lefts I tried hitting the top of the wave and it would just pitch me over the falls and into the laundry cycle. I think they looked good though (haha).
Since I was out of the way, I didn't think too many people noticed but a semi-newb longboarder told me that I was getting into some good waves. Another dude said I was on fire when I was on my way out.
It's definitely nice to see the surfing is paying off in some way. Unfortunately, my goal of getting barreled is still out there. I'll just keep doing it until I get it.
On a side note, I had one funny wave where I went right and my contact popped out. I had to surf (since it was a good right) and try to make sure I didn't lose my contact at the same time. It must have looked stupid.
As it got a little more crowded, I noticed this barreling peak just north of where I was (I think it was between 29th and 30th street), so I decided to paddle over. I figured this is my chance to try to get barreled on a bigger day.
Unfortunately it was pretty fast and heavy so getting barreled wasn't so easy. Every ride you would pull into would just pound you to the ground when you were done. I was unsuccessful on most attempts to get covered up. I did, however, go on some big ones. My motto for today was "go big or go home". I had a few fun lefts and a quick right section. The lefts I tried hitting the top of the wave and it would just pitch me over the falls and into the laundry cycle. I think they looked good though (haha).
Since I was out of the way, I didn't think too many people noticed but a semi-newb longboarder told me that I was getting into some good waves. Another dude said I was on fire when I was on my way out.
It's definitely nice to see the surfing is paying off in some way. Unfortunately, my goal of getting barreled is still out there. I'll just keep doing it until I get it.
On a side note, I had one funny wave where I went right and my contact popped out. I had to surf (since it was a good right) and try to make sure I didn't lose my contact at the same time. It must have looked stupid.
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