That is the sound that is made when Debbie Downer would say something on SNL. That is also the sound that is made when the surf sucks.
Small and mushy today. The only reason to be in the water was, well, to be in the water. The weather was good this morning too.
The end of the week looks to be promising, however. There is a NW coming in. Keeping my fingers crossed!
Tuesday, September 30, 2008
Monday, September 29, 2008
Late post from Saturday
Got an early start Saturday because I thought it was going to be awesome. Unfortunately, it was mediocre at best.
There were a few set waves, but there were also a ton of people up and down the beach. I got a few lefts off the pier, but it got too busy. I moved north, then it got crowded. I moved south and then caught a few more waves.
I think this week is going to be mediocre again because of the weird tidal swings.
There were a few set waves, but there were also a ton of people up and down the beach. I got a few lefts off the pier, but it got too busy. I moved north, then it got crowded. I moved south and then caught a few more waves.
I think this week is going to be mediocre again because of the weird tidal swings.
Friday, September 26, 2008
Better than yesterday
I woke up extra early this morning despite going out for happy hour last night. Yesterday's session showed a lot of potential despite the mushiness and small size.
When I got out, it was pretty foggy. I thought I was going to score some waves all to myself. Unfortunately, everyone was thinking the same thing.
At 7 am the waves were kind of sucky, so I was just taking the insiders. I had a few semi-decent lefts that held up.
By 7:30 the set waves were starting to come in and they were about shoulder high. I tried grabbing a small section coming off the pier.
I figure that by 9 am it was going to be pretty good. Tomorrow should be really good.
When I got out, it was pretty foggy. I thought I was going to score some waves all to myself. Unfortunately, everyone was thinking the same thing.
At 7 am the waves were kind of sucky, so I was just taking the insiders. I had a few semi-decent lefts that held up.
By 7:30 the set waves were starting to come in and they were about shoulder high. I tried grabbing a small section coming off the pier.
I figure that by 9 am it was going to be pretty good. Tomorrow should be really good.
Saturday, September 20, 2008
Today and yesterday
Went out this morning and it was almost as good as yesterday. Peaks up and down the beach.
I tried to stay away from the pack and was just north of everyone. Saw a few people in the water I haven't seen in a while.
It was just a little smaller than yesterday.
I think it is going to get worse this week.
On a side note, I started using silicone ear plugs. They're pretty cool because you shape it to your ear.
I have to do some research on how safe it is though.
I tried to stay away from the pack and was just north of everyone. Saw a few people in the water I haven't seen in a while.
It was just a little smaller than yesterday.
I think it is going to get worse this week.
On a side note, I started using silicone ear plugs. They're pretty cool because you shape it to your ear.
I have to do some research on how safe it is though.
Saturday, September 13, 2008
Ear Infection; 2nd session at Topanga
So I joined a few friends at Topanga on Wednesday night. Was okay - still a lot of people. I saw a few guys get some super long rights.
The bad news is I have another ear infection. The worse news is my surfer's ear is getting worse. Apparently on a scale of 1 to 10 it's a 7. I have to figure out a way to keep it from getting worse.
My doctor says that I have to wear ear protection all the time now.
Man, do pro surfers go through the same thing? It kind of sucks.
The bad news is I have another ear infection. The worse news is my surfer's ear is getting worse. Apparently on a scale of 1 to 10 it's a 7. I have to figure out a way to keep it from getting worse.
My doctor says that I have to wear ear protection all the time now.
Man, do pro surfers go through the same thing? It kind of sucks.
Tuesday, September 9, 2008
First time at Topanga
So I bit the bullet this morning and went up to Topanga to surf. It's a pretty fun spot - nice rights that are easily makeable. It's sort of like Sunset, but with more shape for a shortboard.
There was a significant crowd, so I posted up as far north of everyone as possible. I got a few sections, but couldn't seem to beat a certain section that would close out.
I accidentally cut someone off this morning too, so if you are reading this I apologize - I saw you at the last minute.
Sorry for not posting lately. I have surfed the following days since my last post:
There was a significant crowd, so I posted up as far north of everyone as possible. I got a few sections, but couldn't seem to beat a certain section that would close out.
I accidentally cut someone off this morning too, so if you are reading this I apologize - I saw you at the last minute.
Sorry for not posting lately. I have surfed the following days since my last post:
- Monday, September 1 - It was okay. Had to post up just north of the pier
- Tuesday, September 2 - Same as the 1st
- Friday, September 5 - Decent
- Monday, September 8 - Big slabs and mostly closing out. There were a few quick lefts if you manned up.
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