Mushy but fun

Knee to waist high this morning with the occassional shoulder+ sets rolling through. It was pretty mushy when I first got out, but as the tide started getting lower, it started to get better. Got a few lefts and rights this morning that were worth thinking about at work.

Not too many people either, considering the water is warm. I probably could have trunked it this morning but it was cold on the way to the beach.

Leaving for Vegas this evening, so I won't be hitting the water till Monday.

NW + SW = FUN

Pretty good stuff this morning. Tide seemed like it was going down, but the shape and size was perfect for some fun surf.

I posted up right in front of the first lifeguard tower North Side because the pier had about 10 people by it. There were lefts and rights, but the lefts were actually more makeable than the rights.

Tomorrow conditions should be pretty much the same as today. I'll try to be out there ass early!

Yesterday

Weather was awesome, got a chance to trunk it and spent most of my morning by myself northside. The only thing was almost everything was closing out. Got a left every once in a while, but could only get turns on the small to medium ones.

If you don't surf closeouts, you won't surf

Very chilly water temp this morning and the low tide basically made everything close out. The only place that looked even makeable was just north of the pier. Unfortunately there were already about 10 guys out when I got there.

I started out north side, but wasn't patient enough to wait my turn, so I ended up getting out and going south of the pier. I tried getting into a few lefts, but you definitely would get tossed into the spin cycle.

Tomorrow will probably be worse because the tide will hit bottom at about 6:00.

Funny I got a sequence on the report

Weird that of all people I got a sequence on the surf report today. There must of been 6 other guys in the water when this was taken, but I guess my timing just worked out.

Surf slightly smaller today, with the plus sets still rolling through. Sun is out and the weather is warm, so it was definitely worth going out. Most of the sets were closeouts and the best place to be (as with every summer) was just north of the pier. I ended up posting up right in front of the first life guard tower and tried to get some scraps (occassional lefts and some rights).

Some big ones out there

Report from last Saturday:

I actually ended up surfing up by Bay Street in Santa Monica and the surf was, well, crappy. Hard to find a shoulder and tough to get any type of ride. It was funny too because an older lady told me, "It's not the wave, it's the surfer!"

Huh?

Report from today:

Some gnarly sets rolling through today. I posted up north of the pier this time, but couldn't find much of a ride. This was probably due to the fact that I kept going for the big monster ones. I had one pretty crazy left that I dropped in to - most likely the main reason I dropped in was because everyone was hollering for me to do it.

Smacked my head on the ground as I was trying to get out of the water too. Good times.

South side was a bad idea

Surf today was knee to waste high with 85% closeouts if you were not just north of the pier. I started out south side and got one decent ride the 30 minutes I was out there.

When the crowd left on the north side of the pier, me and 2 other guys snuck over and got some better waves. Unfortunately, I could only stay 15 minutes because I had to get to work.

Closed out

95% of everything today was closed out. Was really tough finding any shoulders so for the most part I just dropped in and tucked my body.

There was also a pretty strong current going North. Walking waist deep you could feel the current take you towards the pier pretty fast. Today would have been better at a point break.

Big and closed out

Got out this morning and there were only 4 people out - 3 southside in front of the first lifeguard tower and 1 northside by the pier.

There were some pretty big closeouts rolling through and the only semblance of a ride would be just making the drop and possibly getting barrelled for 2 seconds. The end of the ride was pretty nasty though because the tide was going down.

By the time I left there were more people and north side looked like it was sort of makeable.

So I decide to bring the fish out...

...because the rest of the week was mushy and crappy. What a bad decision that was. When I got there it was pumping! Waist to head high sets that were clean and peaks up and down the beach.

I hadn't surfed the fish in a while so it took me a while to get used to it.

As the tide filled in, the waves became a lot softer so the fish came in handy. The size held up the rest of the morning, but the wind textured the water a bit.

I ended up surfing for about 3 hours and played volleyball for another 2. Needless to say I was exhausted by noon.

I suck

So today it's starting to get a little bit better, but my performance has not improved. It took me forever to even get my first good wave because:

1. I am a horrible crowd surfer
2. It took me a while to figure out where to position myself
3. I moved from south side to north side and back trying to find a good spot

North side was much better today but it was packed with people. Saw a few guys get some really good rights and get occassionally barrelled.

I, on the other hand, was stuck on the south side in the wrong spot with crappy timing, etc., etc.

The only good thing that happened to me today was a high school kid gave me props for the one good wave that I got. At the end of my session I realized that the wave shifted from north to south really quickly, so the actual spot to be in was farther down then I had originally anticipated.

Tomorrow is supposed to be pretty big, so hopefully I wake up early.

Should have known better..

I was thinking this morning would be way better than yesterday, but it was pretty much the same with a slight pickup in size.

I actually should have brought the fish instead of the shortboard because it was so mushy.

Tomorrow there should be a significant pickup in size and it is a NW, so game on. I'm hoping the size will keep the crowd small too.

Soft and Mushy

Conditions for today and last Saturday were pretty much the same. The surf was pretty mushy, with the occasional shoulder high set waves rolling through.

Nothing spectacular, but worth going out because the weather has been pretty awesome.