Better bring out the wood if you want to surf today

Conditions today - soft and mushy knee to waste high surf. You can get a few on a shortboard, but they would eventually fizzle out. Most of the people getting good rides were on lonboards and paddle boards.

Been a pretty rough week for me because my wife got appendicitis during the week and work is pretty crazy. Today was actually the only day I got to surf. To make things worse, I had to cut my session short because I cut my finger pretty bad when I went in the water on one wave.

As Craig said,"Worried about the sharks, huh?"

Hell yeah I am.

Stormy Conditions

Really bad today. Conditions were stormy, 10 knot winds from south to north, and to make it worse it started to rain halfway through my session.

There were only 2-3 other people out but we couldn't make the sections work.

Welcome Back Session

Just got back from a 2 week vacation and today was a really awesome session. 4-6' with lots of makeable sections.

I started off southside, but moved north to a peak that we going off right in front of the lifeguard tower. Got to do some really good waves and my last wave ended with a sick floater right by the pier.

Unfortunately, my session ended on a bad note because my stuff got stolen off the beach. Sucks!

Can't believe I actually thought about not going in the water

I woke up this morning and totally lagged. I even thought about not surfing. Blasphemy!

By the time I got my ass out there I saw Jaime get this sick backhand barrel. I can't believe I wasn't out there a half an hour earlier.

Today there was some good size, consistency and shape. You couldn't be too deep because it would break fairly quickly. You needed to be at the edge of where it was breaking to make it all the way through.

The conditions for today were perfect for trying to get shacked. I, of course, took a while to get warmed up and kept missing the sweet spot until the end of my session.