Got better later in the morning

When I first got out this morning, it was a little tough getting into the waves. There was a weird current pulling southwest that was unnoticeable until you were 50 yards farther from where you started.

The waves were definitely inconsistent, but once you got into them they were pretty awesome. As the tide went down at 8:00 it got better and better.

Windy and Blown Out

Got out there this morning at about 6:45 and I could already tell it was blown out because there was a little bit of an onshore breeze when I left the house. I saw Ronnie walking out and he said there were a few shoulders and I could see another person in the water as I was walking up.

It didn't look too big from the beach but when I paddled in, the bigger waves were about shoulder to head high and there was definitely a lot of juice in the water. The paddle out was a little far too because the tide was pretty low.

I thought I would be able to find a few shoulders here and there, but for the most part I found tiny little closed out sections that didn't really do anything. I was timid when it came to hitting the lip because I was worried of getting blasted and stuck on the inside.

Hopefully tomorrow it will be a lot cleaner and more consistent.

Surprisingly good

Got out this morning at about 6:40 and it didn't look too good from the pier. I decided to suit up anyway since I had been out of the water for so long.

Luckily I brought the fish because I saw the surf forecast from the night before and the it said the tide was going up with a 3-5' NW. There were some definite fun waves just south of the pier and I had a few nice little rights that took me down the beach.

By 7:30 the beach was packed. Luckily I got enough rides in to satisfy me for the day.

Choppy and Sloppy

This morning it was a little bit of a challenge to get into the lineup. It was really choppy and there was a strong current going north. I tried to walk as far as I could and then paddled in when there was a lull between sets.

When I finally got out there were definitely some waves with some size rolling through. I positioned myself at the same spot I was yesterday and got a few rides, but it was just too messy and inconsistent. I was doing a lot of paddling just to keep me in position.

By the time I left at 8:15 the surf was finito. It was all just wind chop and messy.

Inconsistent, but some fun ones out there

I really tried to make it out there as early as possible because I was avoiding being out there around low tide. As I was suiting up, I was debating on whether or not to wear my booties and as I was putting my booties on - rrrriiiiip. That was a quick way to answer my question.

Today, as with most days, was all about positioning. Most of the guys were posting up at the first peak south of the pier. When I first tried to paddle out, I figured I would paddle out right beside the pier. Old faithful, as luck would have it, turned into a dangerous spot to be. The current was pushing quickly north and I found myself trying to not hit the pier.

So I quickly turned around, headed towards the beach and walked to the southmost person in the water. Since some of the sets were looking like nasty closeouts, I waited for a little bit until there was a lull and got out pretty easy.

I actually lucked out and had a pretty nice right breaking peak where I was sitting. They were fast and had a thick lip, so I had to just pump through the sections to avoid getting smacked.

With good waves, I am really appreciating the quad setup because of how fast they go down the line.

Closed out and nasty

The combination of the low tide and swell direction made today's conditions pretty horrible. You basically paddled in, dropped in quickly and got punished.

If tomorrow is anything like today, it may be better to go somewhere that is better at low tide.

Late post from Saturday

Last Saturday kind of sucked - lots of people in the water and the surf was really mushy. I did get to try my new Body Glove wetsuit that I got from Rider Shack. It's a 3/2 but kept me pretty warm. Unfortunately I was mostly sitting, so I got cold after a while anyway.

Tactical Error

There were a ton of people out southside at 6:15 am. So, I thought I would be slick and go north of the pier. I saw a few roll through and thought I would score some juicy waves with 1 or 2 other people around.

Boy was I wrong.

I spent all my time paddling around and trying to anticipate where the bigger ones would break. In between those bigger sets, I was just sitting around freezing my ass off.

I finally got smart and paddled south to where everyone else was and got a few rides before I had to go to work.

Suckage!

A lot like yesterday

Got out this morning a little earlier than usual and it looked pretty flat due to the tide. There were a few bigger sets that rolled through, so I suited up and paddled out.

It was a lot like yesterday - you had to pick the bigger waves and rely on positioning as well as a little bit of luck. Some waves would break where you expected it, other waves would just do some weird sh#t.

I got some decent rides earlier in the session but when it got to about 8 am, all of the outsiders disappeared. I was waiting for a good 20 minutes before I decided to just paddle in.

Bumpy and Bouncy

When I first got out at 6:30, it looked like the high tide was killing everything. I saw Guy and his wife out, so I figured I would just go out and paddle around.

As the tide started to go down and the energy started to build, the refraction from the beach required some pretty good timing on take off. Not only did you have to take the bigger sets, but you would have to time it so that you had to paddle just as the wave "bounced" up.

For the most part, it probably would have been more prudent to wait another hour for the tide to go down, but I had to get to work. A lot of people were starting to get in the water as I was leaving at 8.

Disappointing

There was some swell in the water this morning, but the 5' high tide was making it weird and mushy at some spots. You practically had to get in them as they were already breaking because the reform would be the best spot to be.

I also think I was in a really bad spot. There were a few people at the sandbar about 60 meters south of the pier so I tried to stay just north of them. The spot I was at required the wave to be a little bit bigger, otherwise it would just die out.

I think with the lower tide, it will definitely be better.