What a difference a day makes

Today is a totally different story from yesterday. Knee to waist high and mushy. There were a few set waves that rolled through, but 50% of them were closing out. The lefts were actually a lot better than the rights if you were sitting south of the pier.

Since the surf was crappy I had a chance to talk to Jaime, a local surfer whom I will never, ever, ever be able to catch up with in terms of time in the water. I can probably also say the same with my skill level. Haha.

We talked about how good it was yesterday and how awesome it was that no one was out. He told me that he got worked by some waves that were only about 3 feet high. It's always nice to hear that surfers as good as Jaime get worked by the surf as other people.

The surf report says that something might be brewing for tomorrow. Hope it happens!

Another awesome day on tap

..and no people!!! This morning there were 4 people out: me, Jaime, Nathan and some other dude. When I was walking up to the water I saw Nathan getting out. I asked him if he was moving to the north side of the pier, but he was actually going to paddle out right beside the pier - he said it was much easier getting out.

I am so glad I took his advice because I got out super quick. There's a little bit of a refraction from the waves that sucks you out pretty easy.

Once I sacked up, I got a pretty fun right that was about shoulder to head high. I tried paddling back out, but the current and waves kept me stuck inside. I actually had to go to the beach and walk back to the pier.

I got a handful of rides that were pretty awesome and had to run to my bag and get a new contact for my right eye half way through the session. I feel like I definitely did much better today than yesterday.

On a side note, I saw my doctor today for a physical and he said I have surfer's ear in my left ear. He told me that I would need to keep my ears warm to prevent it from getting worse. Apparently, surfer's ear is from constantly exposing your ears to cold water then taking it out, then back in the water then out. I need to find something to cover my ears during the winter months. It is really chilly in the water right now - I even got a brainfreeze just trying to duckdive.

I also got my first Hepatitis A shot. Now I can go surfing right after it rains. Just kidding.

Out of shape!!

I was actually not supposed to go out and surf today, but it just looked so good! I was half way through my morning jog, got to the pier and heard some dudes say, "Why aren't you surfing? Look at it!!"

So I ran straight home and paddled in.

The surf was great but I was definitely out of surf shape. Only got a handful of rides, but definitely awesome shape and good size. Took me a while to paddle out - and I thought it was me - but I saw someone else say that the paddle out was pretty far.

Water was pretty gnarly, but the surf was more than worth it. Hopefully tomorrow will be just as good.

Damn this rain

I can't believe how long it's been raining for. I've been jonesing to hit the water, but have been waiting for a few days of sunshine to let the bacteria settle down.

I actually took a look on Saturday and it was awesome. Lots of people out, strong offshores and really nice shape. I didn't want to risk it, but actually thought about it when I saw everyone out there.

Hopefully the rain will stop sometime this week.

Ear Infection

Yep, out of the water again. This time it's due to an ear infection. I actually don't think surfing caused it, but when I was in the water on Monday, it aggravated it. I saw the doctor and told me to take some meds and stay out of the water until it got better.

On a side note - when I told him I surfed Venice every day, he told me that I should get Hepatitis A shots, just in case...

I am probably going to do it as soon as possible.

Crappy day to get back in the water

The angle of the swell and the low tide produced crappy closed out conditions this morning. Air temperature was about 50 degrees so I am assuming the water was about 50-frikking cold as ice-6 or 57. To add to the crappy conditions, there was a wicked current that brought you to the end of the southern berm in 2 seconds.

Aside from all that, it was nice to be back in the water after a long vacation. I actually was going to bail out this morning due to the conditions, but I saw someone paddle out. That's all it takes for me!

Hopefully tomorrow will be better. I also think its a little better up north.