Today was awesome!

Today was pretty awesome. A little on the heavy side, but there were definitely some shoulders out there to play with. I got out there fairly early (about 7:30) and there were only about 4 people out. Slightly overcast but warm. I actually had my 3/2 on instead of my 4/3.

As it got a little more crowded, I noticed this barreling peak just north of where I was (I think it was between 29th and 30th street), so I decided to paddle over. I figured this is my chance to try to get barreled on a bigger day.

Unfortunately it was pretty fast and heavy so getting barreled wasn't so easy. Every ride you would pull into would just pound you to the ground when you were done. I was unsuccessful on most attempts to get covered up. I did, however, go on some big ones. My motto for today was "go big or go home". I had a few fun lefts and a quick right section. The lefts I tried hitting the top of the wave and it would just pitch me over the falls and into the laundry cycle. I think they looked good though (haha).

Since I was out of the way, I didn't think too many people noticed but a semi-newb longboarder told me that I was getting into some good waves. Another dude said I was on fire when I was on my way out.

It's definitely nice to see the surfing is paying off in some way. Unfortunately, my goal of getting barreled is still out there. I'll just keep doing it until I get it.

On a side note, I had one funny wave where I went right and my contact popped out. I had to surf (since it was a good right) and try to make sure I didn't lose my contact at the same time. It must have looked stupid.