Tuesday, October 21, 2008

Fun to Heavy in 0.4 Seconds

So walking a mile in your wetsuit at 6 am sucks. Walking a mile in a wet wetsuit sucks even more. I thought I would be slick and run hot water in my suit before I put it on. It was pretty awesome until about 3 minutes into my walk when the hot water became cold from the air temperature....

Now on to today's session.

Great conditions when I first got out at about 6:45. Glassy, good size and shape. There were only two other people out north side (the guy who takes the venice surf team out and someone else). They left a few minutes after I got into the water.

The rest of the session - I was by myself again! It was pretty sweet for the first 45 minutes. Got a bunch of lefts off the pier. I had a few weak attempts at doing some backside snaps but I really don't think I did them well. For some reason I wasn't timing them right or going high enough on the wave.

I even tried a backside tube, but I felt like I was just sticking my ass on the wave. I should really try to pivot my body more so it is facing forward instead of sideways.

Around 7:30 - big massive sets rolled through that pretty much closed out the north side. The nice lefts pretty much disappeared.

Hopefully my string of luck continues tomorrow morning and nobody is out for another half hour while I am out there.

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