Wish this was a picture of me, but it was the dude beside me who took this wave.Friday was the first day of the swell and it was probably the best day over the last 4 days. I probably should have taken the day off and surfed all day that day. Good size, good shape, glassy, off shore, blah blah blah. It was awesome.
Saturday was stormy, big and closed out. Lots of folks despite the crappy conditions. Lots of gnarly locals too - there was a dude who dropped in on a local and everybody was screaming at him to "get the f@#$ outta here". Pretty nuts. That's why I stay away from that part of north side when it is crowded.
Sunday looked better, but I wasn't in the water.
Today was big and closed out again. The only good thing about today was that there were only 3 people in the water when I first got out till about 7:30. It was me, Nathan and someone else. Despite the big ass closeouts, you could pick which ones to take. When Jaime paddled out it just seemed like everything was big and closed out, not just the set waves.
Wave of the day goes to Nathan today because he took a sick left south side. Total props for him going balls out on that wave.
Posts
1 comment:
And Randy was right there to get a shot of him hugging the wall. Nice! Friday was definitely a fun one. I paddled in as Randy was gearing up.
Post a Comment