Thursday, October 2, 2008

Almost good

The conditions were almost perfect today - good size, good weather, glassy. Unfortunately 90% of the waves were closing out.

I started out just north of the pier and just tried to get some sort of a corner. But like I said, 90% of everything was closing out.

Random news for the day - I saw the older brother from that show Prison Break in the water. I don't think he was trying to blend in too well because he was wearing a black/neon green wetsuit. He looked like he was having a tough time paddling around.

As the crowd filled in I moved south side and I was trying to get this barreling right that was breaking right in front of the first lifeguard tower. My last attempt I almost made it through, but missed it by about 2 feet.

Everyone got a little beat up today because there is some juice in the water. I bet it's pretty good right now with the tide.

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