Some big ones out there

Report from last Saturday:

I actually ended up surfing up by Bay Street in Santa Monica and the surf was, well, crappy. Hard to find a shoulder and tough to get any type of ride. It was funny too because an older lady told me, "It's not the wave, it's the surfer!"

Huh?

Report from today:

Some gnarly sets rolling through today. I posted up north of the pier this time, but couldn't find much of a ride. This was probably due to the fact that I kept going for the big monster ones. I had one pretty crazy left that I dropped in to - most likely the main reason I dropped in was because everyone was hollering for me to do it.

Smacked my head on the ground as I was trying to get out of the water too. Good times.