So today it's starting to get a little bit better, but my performance has not improved. It took me forever to even get my first good wave because:
- I am a horrible crowd surfer
- It took me a while to figure out where to position myself
- I moved from south side to north side and back trying to find a good spot
North side was much better today but it was packed with people. Saw a few guys get some really good rights and get occassionally barrelled.
I, on the other hand, was stuck on the south side in the wrong spot with crappy timing, etc., etc.
The only good thing that happened to me today was a high school kid gave me props for the one good wave that I got. At the end of my session I realized that the wave shifted from north to south really quickly, so the actual spot to be in was farther down then I had originally anticipated.
Tomorrow is supposed to be pretty big, so hopefully I wake up early.
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