Can't believe I actually thought about not going in the water

I woke up this morning and totally lagged. I even thought about not surfing. Blasphemy!

By the time I got my ass out there I saw Jaime get this sick backhand barrel. I can't believe I wasn't out there a half an hour earlier.

Today there was some good size, consistency and shape. You couldn't be too deep because it would break fairly quickly. You needed to be at the edge of where it was breaking to make it all the way through.

The conditions for today were perfect for trying to get shacked. I, of course, took a while to get warmed up and kept missing the sweet spot until the end of my session.