
Got some shoulder high surf this morning with some chop from last night's windy conditions. By the time I got out at about 6:30, there were already about 4 people in the water and they looked like they were getting some good rides.
The surf was pretty fun, but it took me a while to figure out where to position myself. I started out right by the pier but I was too far out. I tried moving south of the pier and got a few,but then realized you had to be by the pier and not as far out because the waves were pretty mushy.
Got a few fun rights south side and had a smile by the time I left.
I realized today that when all the good local surfers are grouped together, I need to find my own spot because I do a lot better. When I post up with a bunch of guys that are good, I don't get a lot of rides plus my mind is always doubting my ability.
The surf was pretty fun, but it took me a while to figure out where to position myself. I started out right by the pier but I was too far out. I tried moving south of the pier and got a few,but then realized you had to be by the pier and not as far out because the waves were pretty mushy.
Got a few fun rights south side and had a smile by the time I left.
I realized today that when all the good local surfers are grouped together, I need to find my own spot because I do a lot better. When I post up with a bunch of guys that are good, I don't get a lot of rides plus my mind is always doubting my ability.
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