Saturday was actually pretty fun - I was out for about 2 hours south side and surfed with Brett and Craig. The swell was a mix of really soft late breakers and some bigger closeouts. If you found the right wave, you could get a few turns in.
Today I decided to go North side and tried to get some lefts a little farther north from where everyone else was. Not much luck there. I saw Tony, Jaime and another person get a bunch of fun rights right off the pier.
I realized how little I knew about the science of surf when Tony asked me if I knew how sand bars worked - I just had to shake my head and say no. He went into a brief explanation of watching the surf and seeing where the current was going.
I think I need to start learning about these things to improve my positioning in the water. Right now, I just check out to see where it is breaking, paddle out, try to find a peak and figure it out from there. I should probably check it out and have a good idea of what is going on before I even hit the water. I think that is why Tony and Jaime always get such good positioning in the water.
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