Stepping out of my comfort zone

I made the surf report today! Wohoo!

Some names for the conditions today:

1. "Hold on to your panties" day
2. "Don't get f$#%ing caught inside" day
3. "Freight train" day
4. "OUTSIIIIIDE"

Yep, today (at least for me) was pretty gnarly. Even when I first walked out it looked big from the beach. When I paddled out I realized it was going to be one of those days...

I tried to play it smart - paddle in by the pier, be smart about the waves I was going to commit to and be ultra conservative about where I was going to position myself. The only thing I was thinking about was, "don't get caught inside, don't get caught inside, don't get caught inside".

There was a really nasty set wave that broke really far out. It caught a few dudes by surprise and smashed them on the inside.

I felt like I was pushing my luck while I was out there so after I got enough waves, I got the hell outta there.