Wednesday, February 27, 2008

Pretty fun day

I think this winter I have been sick more times than I have been out surfing. I'm glad to finally be back and in the water.

Today was also my first time trying out my new 6'3" Jaime Perez Quad shortboard. He's been speaking volumes of the quad fin setup for a long time, so I figured it was high time to try it out.

It's a little nerve racking to be surfing a new board when the guy who shaped it is in the water with you. When I first got out it was a little rough - I have been out of the water for a few weeks - so I was a little rusty.

When you first walked out it didn't look that big, but in the water, the set waves were head high. It took me a while to figure out the right spot to be in, but when I got there, I got this ridiculous right hander. You know, the type of waves that gets your adrenaline pumping for the rest of the session.

So I ended up having a pretty good session. Not all-time, but definitely a fun one. I can tell that summer is getting closer because there were a ton of people in the water. Got cut off twice and had to maneuver around a few people on some waves.

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