Out of shape!!

I was actually not supposed to go out and surf today, but it just looked so good! I was half way through my morning jog, got to the pier and heard some dudes say, "Why aren't you surfing? Look at it!!"

So I ran straight home and paddled in.

The surf was great but I was definitely out of surf shape. Only got a handful of rides, but definitely awesome shape and good size. Took me a while to paddle out - and I thought it was me - but I saw someone else say that the paddle out was pretty far.

Water was pretty gnarly, but the surf was more than worth it. Hopefully tomorrow will be just as good.