Wednesday, January 30, 2008

Another awesome day on tap


..and no people!!! This morning there were 4 people out: me, Jaime, Nathan and some other dude. When I was walking up to the water I saw Nathan getting out. I asked him if he was moving to the north side of the pier, but he was actually going to paddle out right beside the pier - he said it was much easier getting out.

I am so glad I took his advice because I got out super quick. There's a little bit of a refraction from the waves that sucks you out pretty easy.

Once I sacked up, I got a pretty fun right that was about shoulder to head high. I tried paddling back out, but the current and waves kept me stuck inside. I actually had to go to the beach and walk back to the pier.

I got a handful of rides that were pretty awesome and had to run to my bag and get a new contact for my right eye half way through the session. I feel like I definitely did much better today than yesterday.

On a side note, I saw my doctor today for a physical and he said I have surfer's ear in my left ear. He told me that I would need to keep my ears warm to prevent it from getting worse. Apparently, surfer's ear is from constantly exposing your ears to cold water then taking it out, then back in the water then out. I need to find something to cover my ears during the winter months. It is really chilly in the water right now - I even got a brainfreeze just trying to duckdive.

I also got my first Hepatitis A shot. Now I can go surfing right after it rains. Just kidding.

No comments: