I think today is officially the flattest day of the year

Venice - flat, Bay Street - flat, Santa Monica - flat, Sunset - flat, Topanga - flat

sick + vegas + vacation = 1 week off from surfing

So I finally got back in the water after over a week of being sick, going to vegas twice and going on vacation for a few days.

Today was frigid, flat and I spent most of my time sitting.

And yet, I was still happy to get in the water....

Tiny

I woke up extra early today (actually, I woke up early because of jetlag) because I thought it would be much better than yesterday. It was actually worse.

Weather is good, water is cold and there is some shape. We just need some more push.

Half the size of yesterday

Much smaller than yesterday, but just as soft. Luckily for me, I brought out the fish and caught a lot of waves.

Lots of dudes out - 10 north and about 15 south. The vibe was super mellow because there wasn't much going on.

The swell looks to be building throughout the week, but I'm sure the higher tide will keep it pretty soft.

Soft and mushy but fun

Nice that the sun is out at 6 am nowadays - I don't have to wait for first light to get in the water.

Today was pretty fun, but pretty soft. I really need to get the ding fixed on my fish. The good waves were the set waves that came in and were pretty big. I really wanted to hit the lip but there wasn't much speed or lip.

Water was cold but weather was great. Time to bust out the booties and the 4/3.

North side was packed so I had to paddle southside and do a little more waiting.

Can't feel my toes

Looks like my "welcome back to LA" session was a flop:

• My toes went numb because I didn't wear booties right away
• The surf was too soft for a shortboard - you needed a fish or an LB today
• I'm spaced out because I just got back from vacation and I am jetlagging
• I was out of surf-shape
• I got a leg cramp near the end of my session

Weather was great though...