Saturday, December 15, 2007

A little smaller today - and definitely still cold

Got out this morning at about 6:20 and it was pretty cold. I opted to go southside since I had so much luck with that area yesterday. Unfortunately, there were a lot of big lulls, so I got the "grass is greener" syndrome and ended up paddling North side then eventually back south. There is actually a pretty good sandbar about 50 yards south of the pier.
Got a few good rides, but my best ones were the ones where I waited way outside for the cleanup sets. Those were nice and meaty and gave me a lot of face to move. I actually had a few off the lips that I thought I was going to get crushed on, but landed.

Every wave I got I always thought in the back of my head, "does my style look rank?" Probably does, but whatever - I'll just keep working at it.

There's an Australian dude (a few of them actually) that surf Venice pretty regularly. Those guys have awesome style whether it be on a longboard or a fish. I'd like to get to a point where everything looks super smooth and easy.

The only way to do that is to just keep surfing.

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