Friday, October 12, 2007

Woke up at 5 am

Dane Reynolds video I found on youtube.
Since I missed getting out yesterday, I made it a point to be out there as early as possible today (5:40 am). Paddled out with Ronnie and another person right before first light and we were doing pretty good guessing which waves were makeable.

By the time the sun started to rise there were about 8 people in the water.

Conditions today weren't as glassy as yesterday and the size dropped a little bit. Waves were definitely mostly mush so you either had to wait for the big ones outside or be satisfied with the insiders.

I recognized a few people today and talked a little bit with this british kid who just started surfing the pier. He pointed at Jaime and said, "I don't think that guy likes me." Actually, when I got close enough to Jaime he told me that he wasn't happy about the crowd this morning. Kind of funny, because I have had moments surfing the pier when I thought Jaime didn't like me either.

I wasn't too happy about the crowds today either. Here are the two incidents I experienced:

  • On what looked to be the wave of the day, a dude on a longboard failed to get out of my way fast enough so I hit the tail of his surfboard
  • On another good wave, there were 2 bodyboarders that were definitely in harm's way
For the most part though, I didn't care because I was out there surfing and trying to have a good time. I was just using a lot of juice trying to paddle into the mushies.

Size is going to back down a bit again tomorrow so I think I will bring the fish out. Hopefully it doesn't rain today because I rode my motorcycle to work.

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