Monday, October 22, 2007

Today was awesome and empty

This is what I saw this morning before the sun came out - the Malibu fires. Photo taken from venicesurfreport.com.

I couldn't believe how good today was. The report said 4'-7' for both a NW and SW swell. High tide was at 7 am, so the conditions turned out to be perfect. I was out North of the pier by myself from 6:30 to 7:30.

The mixed swell produced some closeouts, but there were a combination of lefts and rights. The high tide made the sections makeable and not so nasty.

I had a few waves where I did some good turns, but I still found myself pulling out instead of tucking into the barrel. Damn you, backside barrel, damn you.

4 comments:

pat said...

nice picture holmes. glad you got some.

Whiffleboy said...

I watched the Pier for over an hour yesterday and ended up going home dry. There were only about 3 people out and no one was catching much of anything. I passed today because of that.

Based on your post, maybe I'll check tomorrow.

Not Surfing said...

Sick photo...I cant wait to surf in Dec! San Diego may be out as I can only surf on thurs...however I will be up north on Sat!

lostgavin said...

Hey guys, I have to admit I didn't take the photo - I got it from the surf report. I don't want to take credit for it!