I saw the dude taking this shot as I was walking out this morning. As you can tell, it's still pretty dark out! There were 4 kids already paddling in as I was walking up.Today was one of the best, if not the best sessions I have ever had. My brain is still going bonkers from all of the adrenaline and sensory overload. When I walked out this morning I could see the lines in the water in the dark. I could also see white caps peeling southward due to the (strictly) NW swell.
It didn't look that big from the beach, but when I got out there, there was definitely some size in the water. Fortunately, the good combination of the tide and the swell direction made the bigger ones more than makeable.
The only bad news was the paddle out. It was pretty brutal because of all the water that was moving. I actually had to get out, walk north to the lifeguard tower then paddle in. The current was pulling south like a mofo.
I had a few sweet rights where I started from the lifeguard tower just north of the pier to the pier. Man, I was grinning from ear to ear with those.
I didn't even have to paddle too hard to get into them. I just paddled and got up as quickly as I could and got into it. The faces were big enough to do nice wide turns.
I also saw a fellow blogger out there in the water. Unfortunately I think he brought the wrong tool for the job. I'm not sure what happened to him - he may have moved south or left to get another board. It was pretty cool to finally meet him though! Watup Whiffleboy!
Today I just stayed in the water for an hour and a half. My body is exhausted from the paddling and surfing.
Till tomorrow!
It didn't look that big from the beach, but when I got out there, there was definitely some size in the water. Fortunately, the good combination of the tide and the swell direction made the bigger ones more than makeable.
The only bad news was the paddle out. It was pretty brutal because of all the water that was moving. I actually had to get out, walk north to the lifeguard tower then paddle in. The current was pulling south like a mofo.
I had a few sweet rights where I started from the lifeguard tower just north of the pier to the pier. Man, I was grinning from ear to ear with those.
I didn't even have to paddle too hard to get into them. I just paddled and got up as quickly as I could and got into it. The faces were big enough to do nice wide turns.
I also saw a fellow blogger out there in the water. Unfortunately I think he brought the wrong tool for the job. I'm not sure what happened to him - he may have moved south or left to get another board. It was pretty cool to finally meet him though! Watup Whiffleboy!
Today I just stayed in the water for an hour and a half. My body is exhausted from the paddling and surfing.
Till tomorrow!
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1 comment:
Well, dude, I'm glad you were able to pull a good session out of that stuff this morning. Yep...not counting on onshores that early, I brought the twin fin. The nose kept getting buried in the chop and the couple I surfed [before saying "fuck it"] had the board flying all over the face. I could've really used my thruster this morning.
I was only out for about 25 minutes.
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