Today was definitely a great day to be in the water. The size backed down a bit and there were peaks up and down the beach. I was out at 6:20 and there was only one other dude out, so it was like a fat kid in the buffet line. I stayed out until a little past 8.
I did notice, however that I'm not doing a good job in terms of reading what the wave is doing. Sometimes, when I should have hit the lip hard, I ducked and tried to get in the barrel. Other times, I was standing straight up when I should have tucked into the barrel.
I wonder if I'm thinking too much when I'm out there. I really try to visualize what I want to do, but the stuff I visualize in my head isn't usually what happens on the wave. Haha!
Subscribe to:
Post Comments (Atom)
Posts
No comments:
Post a Comment