(This wave was bigger than it looks... I swear!!! I think I need to spread my stance more when going backside.) This morning was much better because the size backed down a bit and the left coming off the pier had plenty of shoulder. I was so excited, I barely waited for any sunlight to start showing before I paddled out.
I wanted to practice my backside, ahem, "tuberiding" skills (otherwise known as bending down as low as possible into the closeouts) but I kept whussing out. It's weird because today you almost wanted to stand up and pump a few times to get some speed. Unfortunately, by the time I got enough speed, the wave would close out. I kept getting the feeling I should have tried to do something more at the end of the rides.
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I was [this] close to checking it this morning, but, figured the tide was too low and I really didn't want to practice on those quick, walled, guillotine closeouts. Although, it looks like the size was small enough to at least not pound you so much.
Too bad, it was a lot of fun!
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