

Felt like a girly man today because I wouldn't sack up and take a few in the head with the closeout sets. A few other dudes were out today and they were paddling into some monster closeouts.
I definitely didn't want to be a part of the "closeout club" today. One guy saw me pull out of a wave that was barreling and he told me "You should never pull out! Ever!" I'll definitely take his advice on that. Backside is just so awkward for me.
I just have to remember what Taj always says: http://www.surfwithtaj.com/taj/heat/bs_tube.asp
One of the guys that was out there got hit pretty hard paddling into one of the bigger sets. I heard someone asking him questions if he was okay and he seemed shaken up a bit.
I did, however, get some photo opps because I was out there early. They look pretty cool, but I wish I had done something more on the wave.
Oh well, there's always tomorrow.
1 comment:
Perhaps you should titled your entry, "I am a girly man". Just a thought!
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