The bigger waves were less frequent today but there were definitely some fun ones to partake of. I was out super early and there was a dude out there in the dark by himself. Pretty nice guy - he had been out of the water for a bit and just got back into surfing. Looks like he had a hard time paddling into them.
For me, today was better in the sense that I was responding to the waves better and doing what was more appropriate. I still lose too much speed on the last move after pumping through. I think I shouldn't do such a deep bottom turn on my last move so that I can get my fins out of the water - or better yet - punt an air (dreaming).
Anyways, I heard this weekend is going to be pretty weak, so it's time to go back to the fish.
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