(Another old photo from early this year.)
Got in today at about 6:30 and it didn’t look too great as I was walking out. Water’s pretty warm – trunks and a thermal rash guard. Once I got in the water I realized the peak just north of the pier was a machine. It was pumping out solid lefts and rights (into the pier) every few minutes. The waves were nice because the buildup was slow. You had a lot of time to get up and start pumping before it stood up. Medium tide and not much wind.
My new friend Matt was also out this morning. Met the dude one morning when conditions weren’t that great but he was ripping. Dude is very kickass in the water. He used to be sponsored and used to teach a surf clinic for intermediate to advanced surfers. I always get some good advice when we are in the water together. I give him some business advice in exchange.
Today’s lesson was positioning. He started telling me about how he was taking aikido lessons and how his instructor taught him the same thing he taught his students for years. It had something to do with being early and prepared is much better than being strong. So he basically told me that I can paddle my ass of all I want, but the real battle is positioning yourself in the right place. He told me that once I find the wave I want, I shouldn’t take my eyes off of it and start paddling to the right position as early as possible.
He usually gives me pretty good advice. His last two comments when we were in the water helped a lot.
I also learned the difference between a wind swell and a ground swell by reading this article:
http://www.stormsurf.com/page2/tutorials/wavebasics.shtml
Now I don't feel like a dumbass in the water when someone asks me if there is a wind swell or a ground swell. Sheesh.
Got in today at about 6:30 and it didn’t look too great as I was walking out. Water’s pretty warm – trunks and a thermal rash guard. Once I got in the water I realized the peak just north of the pier was a machine. It was pumping out solid lefts and rights (into the pier) every few minutes. The waves were nice because the buildup was slow. You had a lot of time to get up and start pumping before it stood up. Medium tide and not much wind.
My new friend Matt was also out this morning. Met the dude one morning when conditions weren’t that great but he was ripping. Dude is very kickass in the water. He used to be sponsored and used to teach a surf clinic for intermediate to advanced surfers. I always get some good advice when we are in the water together. I give him some business advice in exchange.
Today’s lesson was positioning. He started telling me about how he was taking aikido lessons and how his instructor taught him the same thing he taught his students for years. It had something to do with being early and prepared is much better than being strong. So he basically told me that I can paddle my ass of all I want, but the real battle is positioning yourself in the right place. He told me that once I find the wave I want, I shouldn’t take my eyes off of it and start paddling to the right position as early as possible.
He usually gives me pretty good advice. His last two comments when we were in the water helped a lot.
I also learned the difference between a wind swell and a ground swell by reading this article:
http://www.stormsurf.com/page2/tutorials/wavebasics.shtml
Now I don't feel like a dumbass in the water when someone asks me if there is a wind swell or a ground swell. Sheesh.
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