(The image is an old image from last year. I'm just trying out the blogger software.)
I find my title hilarious. Found it on an ecard somewhere.
So I woke up this morning - a little hungover - and since I was out of shorts I decided to wear the same shorts from yesterday's volleyball game. I hate those shorts for surfing. It's so weird because they are Andy Iron's signature board shorts, but they have lining. Who the hell likes shorts with lining when they surf? It just slides around and makes it so hard to get a feel for the board.
Anyway.... the surf today was as good as yesterday, but there was a large group of people surfing the peak north of the pier. I thought I would be slick and surf south side because I saw a few waves roll through. That was a bad idea. The peak moved around and all the lefts into the pier just faded. Luckily Matt showed up and told me that it was actually a better right. I think he is the only dude that will punt an air in crappy conditions.
So nearing the end of my session, I sobered up a little and paddled north side. Totally changed my session from a crappy one to a decent one. Unfortunately, by the time I was getting better waves I was already pretty tired. I stayed until I had a few good waves under my belt.
The summer crowd is starting to fill in and it's going to start getting nasty. I've got to work on my crowd surfing. This morning I almost killed a sponger that cut across my path as I was paddling for a wave. Lucky I was hung over, cause I would have been pretty pissed otherwise.
I find my title hilarious. Found it on an ecard somewhere.
So I woke up this morning - a little hungover - and since I was out of shorts I decided to wear the same shorts from yesterday's volleyball game. I hate those shorts for surfing. It's so weird because they are Andy Iron's signature board shorts, but they have lining. Who the hell likes shorts with lining when they surf? It just slides around and makes it so hard to get a feel for the board.
Anyway.... the surf today was as good as yesterday, but there was a large group of people surfing the peak north of the pier. I thought I would be slick and surf south side because I saw a few waves roll through. That was a bad idea. The peak moved around and all the lefts into the pier just faded. Luckily Matt showed up and told me that it was actually a better right. I think he is the only dude that will punt an air in crappy conditions.
So nearing the end of my session, I sobered up a little and paddled north side. Totally changed my session from a crappy one to a decent one. Unfortunately, by the time I was getting better waves I was already pretty tired. I stayed until I had a few good waves under my belt.
The summer crowd is starting to fill in and it's going to start getting nasty. I've got to work on my crowd surfing. This morning I almost killed a sponger that cut across my path as I was paddling for a wave. Lucky I was hung over, cause I would have been pretty pissed otherwise.
Posts
No comments:
Post a Comment